You may remember that those lovely chaps at Stylecraft Yarns recently asked knitters and crocheters to nominate colours that they would like to see added to the Special DK range. They received loads of entries and a panel of judges whittled the colours down to a short list of 10 shades. You can read more about the competition written from Lucy's perspective on the Attic 24 blog.
Once the 10 shades were chosen, the colours were put to the public vote in order to see which shade would reign supreme. It was no big surprise that 'Duck Egg' was named the outright winner as it is such a classically beautiful and versatile shade.There are currently more than 70 shades in the Special DK range and the winning shade will be added to the range for this Autumn.
Rather than ignore the remaining 9 shades, Stylecraft will be releasing a limited number of Special DK packs which will contain a 50g ball of all 10 short listed shades. The kits will be available from stockists from mid October, so make sure you look out for them.
To celebrate the launch of the limited edition kits, Stylecraft have asked a selection of bloggers and designers to get involved. Over the course of the next 10 days you can follow a blog a day and be in with the chance to win one of the fab yarn kits. Sue Pinner, Cherry Heart, Patchwork Heart and The Twisted Yarn are all getting involved so, not only can you be in with the chance to win a kit, but you can also take a look at what they think of the new shades and maybe even have a go at the things they have made using them.
My yarn pack arrived from Stylecraft around 3 weeks ago and I have been playing with the shades ever since. My favourite shade is Pistachio. This in turn works really beautifully with the Duck Egg and these 2 shades work really well with the Mustard and Empire shades.
One of my favourite things about my design process is choosing the colour palette and I have a standard way of choosing - I usually start with mid range shades (for me these are often pink shades) I then add in a couple of direct contrasts, a very bright shade for accents, a couple of dark shades and a couple of light shades. I think it is tough to choose a palette under 10 shades and I always struggle with a tight palette. It is always hard to judge a colour on line as computer screens make shades look far more blue than they actually are and although I had seen a picture of the short listed colours, to see them 'in the flesh' was a real relief as the palette works really well and there is the opportunity for some really lovely colour ways within the pack.
Stylecraft asked me to design 2 cushion projects to go with the pack - a knit one and a crochet one. The patterns will be free to download via the Stylecraft web site soon (to coincide with the yarn kits going on sale).
To kick off the Blog tour I have also started to design a small bag which uses the shades in the kit. I say started because the project currently remains unfinished as I have had a ton of things to sort out in the lead up to the Yarndale show this weekend and have ended up with sore thumbs that no longer wish to crochet! Rather than crochet through the pain (sob!) I will be giving my hands a rest and so will complete the bag at a slower speed than usual and hopefully post images of my completed bag within the next week or so. I'm sure you will get the idea of what the completed bag should look like from the images below even though it remains incomplete.
The tutorial/pattern for the bag is below:
You will need the following:
2 hooks as follows:
3.5mm or 4mm for the main part of the bag
3mm or 3.5mm for the button band
(depending on your tension and how loose you like your stitches to look)
If you use a 3.5mm for the main part of the bag, use a 3mm for the band
If you use a 4mm for the main part of the bag, use a 3.5mm for the band
Stylecraft Special DK Limited Edition yarn pack or 10 shades of Special DK in your own choice of shades
A small button
Lining fabric
Method:
Using Empire & either 3.5mm or 4mm hook, make 44ch
Foundation Row: skip 1ch, 1dc into each ch to end, turn (43sts)
Row 1: (WS facing) 3ch, (counts as 1tr), skip st at base of 3ch, 3tr into next st, skip 2sts, 1dc into each next 3sts, * skip 2sts, 7tr into next st, skip 2sts, 1dc into each next 3sts; repeat from * 3 times, skip 2sts, 3tr into next st, 1tr into next st, changing yarn shade to Mustard on the final step of the last st, turn
Row 2: (RS facing) Using Mustard, 1ch (does not count as a at), 2dc into st at base of 1ch, 1dc into next st, * 3ch, tr7tog over next 7sts to make a cluster, 3ch, 1dc into each next 3sts; repeat from * 3 times, 3ch, tr7tog over next 7sts to make a cluster, 3ch, 1dc into next st, 2dc into top of 3ch made at beginning of last row, changing yarn shade to Pistachio on the final step of the last st, turn
Row 3: Using Pistachio, 1ch, (does not count as a st) 1dc into st at base of 1ch, 1dc into each next 2sts, * skip 3ch, 7tr into centre of cluster made on previous row, skip 3ch, 1dc into each next 3sts; repeat from * 4 times, changing yarn shade to Boysenberry on the final step of the last st, turn
Row 4: Using Boysenberry, 3ch (counts as 1tr), tr4tog over next 4sts to make a half cluster, 3ch, 1dc into each next 3sts, * 3ch, tr7tog over next 7sts to make a cluster, 3ch, 1dc into each next 3sts; repeat from * 3 times, 3ch, tr4tog over next 4sts to make a half cluster, 1tr into next st, changing yarn shade to Fuchsia Purple on the final step of the last st, turn
Row 5: Using Fuchsia Purple 3ch, (counts as 1tr), skip st at base of 3ch, 3tr into next st, skip 3ch, 1dc into each next 3sts, * skip 3ch, 7tr into centre of cluster made on previous row, skip 3ch, 1dc into each next 3sts; repeat from * 3 times, skip 3ch, 3tr into centre of next half cluster, 1tr into next st, changing yarn shade to Kelly Green on the final step of the last st, turn (turning chain skipped)
Row 6: Using Kelly Green, work as Row 2, changing yarn shade to Grass Green on the final step of the last st, turn
Row 7: Using Grass Green, work as Row 3, changing yarn shade to Lobelia on the final step of the last st, turn
Row 8: Using Lobelia, work as Row 4, changing yarn shade to Empire on the final step of the last st, turn
Row 9: (WS facing) Using Empire, 1ch, 1dc into st at base of 1ch, 1dc into next st, 2dc into next ch sp, * 1dc into each next 3sts, 2dc into next ch sp, 1dc into centre of next cluster, 2dc into next ch sp; repeat from * 3 times, 1dc into each next 3sts, 2dc into next ch sp, 1dc into centre of next cluster, 1dc into next st, changing yarn shade to Duck Egg on the final step of the last st, turn (43sts) (turning chain skipped)
I sewed in most of my yarn ends at this point.
Row 10: Using Duck Egg, 1ch (does not count as a st) 1dc into each st to end, changing yarn shade to Mustard on the final step of the last st, turn (43sts)
Row 11: Using Mustard, 1ch (does not count as a st) 1dc into each st to end, changing yarn shade to Pistachio on the final step of the last st, turn (43sts)
Row 12: Pistachio, 1ch (does not count as a st) 1dc into each st to end, turn (43sts)
Row 13: (WS facing) 1ch (does not count as a st), 1dc into st at base of 1ch, 1htr into next st, 1tr into next st, 3dtr into next st, 1tr into next st, 1htr into next st, 1dc into next st; repeat from * to end, changing yarn shade to Empire on the final step of the last st, turn
You need to keep an eye on your tension over the last row, as many crocheters achieve a looser tension on stitches with longer posts such as treble and double treble crochet. The shape of the bag does get a little wider here, but if you find your work is getting a lot wider, change to a smaller hook.
Row 14: (RS facing) 1ch (does not count as a st), dc2tog over st at base of 1ch & next st, 1dc into each next 2sts, 3dc into next st, 1dc into each next 2sts, dc3tog over next 3sts; repeat from * to end, replacing dc3tog with dc2tog on final pattern repeat & changing yarn shade to Lobelia on the final step of the last st, turn
Row 15: Using Lobelia, work as previous row, changing yarn shade to Cypress on the final step of the last st, turn
Row 16: (RS facing) Using Cypress 4ch (counts as 1dtr), skip st at base of 4ch, 1dtr into next st, 1tr into next st, 1htr into next st, 1dc into next st, * 1htr into next st, 1tr into next st, dtr3tog over next 3sts, 1tr into next st, 1htr into next st, 1dc into next st; repeat from * 5 times, 1htr into next st, 1tr into next st dtr2tog over next st sts, turn
Row 17: 1ch (does not count as a st), 1dc into st at base of 1ch, 1dc into each st to end, skip tch, changing yarn shade to Duck Egg on the final step of the last st, turn (43sts)
Row 18 - 25: work from beginning Row 10 to end of Row 17, do not change yarn shade, turn
Row 26: 1ch (does not count as a st), 1dc into st at base of 1ch, 1dc into each st to end (43sts), fasten off
Top band:
Foundation Row: (RS facing) Using Duck Egg and 3mm or 3.5mm hook (depending upon which hook size you used for the main part of the bag) join yarn into remaining side of first foundation ch by working 1ch, (does not count as a st), 1dc into each ch to end, turn (43sts)
Row 1: 1ch, 1dc into st at base of 1ch, 1dc into each next 19sts, 3ch, skip 3sts, 1dc into each st to end, turn
Row 2: 1ch, 1dc into st at base of 1ch, 1dc into each next 19sts, 1dc into each next 3ch, 1dc into each st to end, fasten off (43sts) Do not turn
Row 3: (RS facing) join yarn into first st of last row by working 1ch (does not count as a st), working from the reverse 1dc around the post of each st to end, fasten off
I hope the images give you some idea of what the bag will look like - I plan to line mine and make it some handles. As soon as it is done I will post some images on here and on Facebook.
My blog is followed tomorrow by Josie Kitten - I am really looking forward to seeing what she has been up to with her yarn pack and I am also eagerly waiting to see what Emma Varnham has created with her pack
If you would like to be in with the chance to win a Limited Edition pack of your own you can enter the draw by following this link.
Good Luck and have fun!
Janie x
Rather than ignore the remaining 9 shades, Stylecraft will be releasing a limited number of Special DK packs which will contain a 50g ball of all 10 short listed shades. The kits will be available from stockists from mid October, so make sure you look out for them.
To celebrate the launch of the limited edition kits, Stylecraft have asked a selection of bloggers and designers to get involved. Over the course of the next 10 days you can follow a blog a day and be in with the chance to win one of the fab yarn kits. Sue Pinner, Cherry Heart, Patchwork Heart and The Twisted Yarn are all getting involved so, not only can you be in with the chance to win a kit, but you can also take a look at what they think of the new shades and maybe even have a go at the things they have made using them.
My yarn pack arrived from Stylecraft around 3 weeks ago and I have been playing with the shades ever since. My favourite shade is Pistachio. This in turn works really beautifully with the Duck Egg and these 2 shades work really well with the Mustard and Empire shades.
One of my favourite things about my design process is choosing the colour palette and I have a standard way of choosing - I usually start with mid range shades (for me these are often pink shades) I then add in a couple of direct contrasts, a very bright shade for accents, a couple of dark shades and a couple of light shades. I think it is tough to choose a palette under 10 shades and I always struggle with a tight palette. It is always hard to judge a colour on line as computer screens make shades look far more blue than they actually are and although I had seen a picture of the short listed colours, to see them 'in the flesh' was a real relief as the palette works really well and there is the opportunity for some really lovely colour ways within the pack.
The crochet cushion cover is reversible and features a skipped stitch pattern and a puff stitch on one side and a chevron pattern on the other.
The tutorial/pattern for the bag is below:
You will need the following:
2 hooks as follows:
3.5mm or 4mm for the main part of the bag
3mm or 3.5mm for the button band
(depending on your tension and how loose you like your stitches to look)
If you use a 3.5mm for the main part of the bag, use a 3mm for the band
If you use a 4mm for the main part of the bag, use a 3.5mm for the band
Stylecraft Special DK Limited Edition yarn pack or 10 shades of Special DK in your own choice of shades
A small button
Lining fabric
Method:
Using Empire & either 3.5mm or 4mm hook, make 44ch
Foundation Row: skip 1ch, 1dc into each ch to end, turn (43sts)
Row 1: (WS facing) 3ch, (counts as 1tr), skip st at base of 3ch, 3tr into next st, skip 2sts, 1dc into each next 3sts, * skip 2sts, 7tr into next st, skip 2sts, 1dc into each next 3sts; repeat from * 3 times, skip 2sts, 3tr into next st, 1tr into next st, changing yarn shade to Mustard on the final step of the last st, turn
Row 2: (RS facing) Using Mustard, 1ch (does not count as a at), 2dc into st at base of 1ch, 1dc into next st, * 3ch, tr7tog over next 7sts to make a cluster, 3ch, 1dc into each next 3sts; repeat from * 3 times, 3ch, tr7tog over next 7sts to make a cluster, 3ch, 1dc into next st, 2dc into top of 3ch made at beginning of last row, changing yarn shade to Pistachio on the final step of the last st, turn
Row 4: Using Boysenberry, 3ch (counts as 1tr), tr4tog over next 4sts to make a half cluster, 3ch, 1dc into each next 3sts, * 3ch, tr7tog over next 7sts to make a cluster, 3ch, 1dc into each next 3sts; repeat from * 3 times, 3ch, tr4tog over next 4sts to make a half cluster, 1tr into next st, changing yarn shade to Fuchsia Purple on the final step of the last st, turn
Row 5: Using Fuchsia Purple 3ch, (counts as 1tr), skip st at base of 3ch, 3tr into next st, skip 3ch, 1dc into each next 3sts, * skip 3ch, 7tr into centre of cluster made on previous row, skip 3ch, 1dc into each next 3sts; repeat from * 3 times, skip 3ch, 3tr into centre of next half cluster, 1tr into next st, changing yarn shade to Kelly Green on the final step of the last st, turn (turning chain skipped)
Row 7: Using Grass Green, work as Row 3, changing yarn shade to Lobelia on the final step of the last st, turn
Row 8: Using Lobelia, work as Row 4, changing yarn shade to Empire on the final step of the last st, turn
Row 9: (WS facing) Using Empire, 1ch, 1dc into st at base of 1ch, 1dc into next st, 2dc into next ch sp, * 1dc into each next 3sts, 2dc into next ch sp, 1dc into centre of next cluster, 2dc into next ch sp; repeat from * 3 times, 1dc into each next 3sts, 2dc into next ch sp, 1dc into centre of next cluster, 1dc into next st, changing yarn shade to Duck Egg on the final step of the last st, turn (43sts) (turning chain skipped)
I sewed in most of my yarn ends at this point.
Row 10: Using Duck Egg, 1ch (does not count as a st) 1dc into each st to end, changing yarn shade to Mustard on the final step of the last st, turn (43sts)
Row 11: Using Mustard, 1ch (does not count as a st) 1dc into each st to end, changing yarn shade to Pistachio on the final step of the last st, turn (43sts)
Row 12: Pistachio, 1ch (does not count as a st) 1dc into each st to end, turn (43sts)
Row 13: (WS facing) 1ch (does not count as a st), 1dc into st at base of 1ch, 1htr into next st, 1tr into next st, 3dtr into next st, 1tr into next st, 1htr into next st, 1dc into next st; repeat from * to end, changing yarn shade to Empire on the final step of the last st, turn
You need to keep an eye on your tension over the last row, as many crocheters achieve a looser tension on stitches with longer posts such as treble and double treble crochet. The shape of the bag does get a little wider here, but if you find your work is getting a lot wider, change to a smaller hook.
Row 14: (RS facing) 1ch (does not count as a st), dc2tog over st at base of 1ch & next st, 1dc into each next 2sts, 3dc into next st, 1dc into each next 2sts, dc3tog over next 3sts; repeat from * to end, replacing dc3tog with dc2tog on final pattern repeat & changing yarn shade to Lobelia on the final step of the last st, turn
Row 15: Using Lobelia, work as previous row, changing yarn shade to Cypress on the final step of the last st, turn
Row 17: 1ch (does not count as a st), 1dc into st at base of 1ch, 1dc into each st to end, skip tch, changing yarn shade to Duck Egg on the final step of the last st, turn (43sts)
Row 18 - 25: work from beginning Row 10 to end of Row 17, do not change yarn shade, turn
Row 26: 1ch (does not count as a st), 1dc into st at base of 1ch, 1dc into each st to end (43sts), fasten off
Top band:
Foundation Row: (RS facing) Using Duck Egg and 3mm or 3.5mm hook (depending upon which hook size you used for the main part of the bag) join yarn into remaining side of first foundation ch by working 1ch, (does not count as a st), 1dc into each ch to end, turn (43sts)
Row 1: 1ch, 1dc into st at base of 1ch, 1dc into each next 19sts, 3ch, skip 3sts, 1dc into each st to end, turn
Row 2: 1ch, 1dc into st at base of 1ch, 1dc into each next 19sts, 1dc into each next 3ch, 1dc into each st to end, fasten off (43sts) Do not turn
Row 3: (RS facing) join yarn into first st of last row by working 1ch (does not count as a st), working from the reverse 1dc around the post of each st to end, fasten off
I hope the images give you some idea of what the bag will look like - I plan to line mine and make it some handles. As soon as it is done I will post some images on here and on Facebook.
My blog is followed tomorrow by Josie Kitten - I am really looking forward to seeing what she has been up to with her yarn pack and I am also eagerly waiting to see what Emma Varnham has created with her pack
If you would like to be in with the chance to win a Limited Edition pack of your own you can enter the draw by following this link.
Good Luck and have fun!
Janie x
