Column of Leaves Knitted Scarf

This is a very pretty lace pattern that I used thicker yarn for, but I imagine it would be beautiful with thinner yarn.

Materials:

Size 8 needles

2 skeins Loops & Threads Impeccable yarn in Aran

Instructions:

Pattern available here.

This pattern is really easy to follow, but it's not the best pattern for memorizing and working it on the morning commute. It's repetitive and easy to do most stitches in a row without looking at the pattern, but I found it helpful to keep the pattern in front of me to glance at when starting a new row to make sure I was working the correct stitches, especially toward the middle of the row.

Tips:

Notice that the beginning and ending edging specifies WS and RS, not first row and second row. I incorrectly read it as Row 1 and Row 2 and ended on the RS row before beginning the lace pattern, but  you need to end on the WS row before beginning the pattern. Thus, either work 7 rows or 9 rows (or another odd number) before ending the edging, not 8 rows as the pattern says.

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Lesson: Change Colors Seamlessly (Crochet)

Changing colored yarns while making a hat or scarf, for example, can make for a really dynamic piece. But how do you change colors flawlessly while crocheting? You would think it's as simple as finishing one stitch entirely in one color then starting the next stitch with a new color, but it's not. In fact, you need to switch colors before finishing off your stitch.

See the photo tutorial below:

For the purposes of this demonstration, let's assume your main color (MC) is white and your contrast color (CC) is green. You are working a bunch of double crochets (DC) along in your MC, but you want to change over to the CC in your next stitch.

Start the DC as normal with the MC. Yo and pull a loop through in MC:

Yo and pull over two loops in MC:

Now change over to the CC. Yo in CC:

Pull over two loops:

Continue working DCs in the CC. 

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Pattern: Checkered Hunting Hat

Materials:
Size H crochet hook
1 skein Loops & Threads Impeccable Solids in Navy (MC)
1 skein Loops & Threads Impeccable Solids in Grey (CC)

Stitches:
Dc - double crochet
Sl st - slip stitch
MC - main color
CC - contrast color
Sc2tog - single crochet two together

Instructions:
Hat Body
The colors switch after three rounds. Once you are done increasing, each color section has 7 stitches in it.

Round 1: Using magic circle, *1 dc in MC, 1 dc in CC.* Repeat from * to * four more times (five color sections total). Sl st to 1st dc made. (10 dc)
Round 2: Using MC, ch2, dc in first st. In CC, 2dc in next st.  *In MC, 2dc in next st. In CC, 2dc in next st.* Repeat from * to * three more times (five color sections total). Sl st in first dc. (20 dc)
Round 3: Using MC, ch2, 2dc in next st. Using CC, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st. *Using MC, dc in next st, 2dc in next st. Using CC, dc in next st, 2dc in next st.* Repeat from * to * three more times (five color sections total). Sl st in first dc. (30 dc)

Round 4: Using CC, ch2, dc in next st, 2dc in next st. Using MC, dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st. *Using CC, dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st. Using MC, dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st.* Repeat from* to * three more times (five color sections total). Sl st in first dc. (40 dc)
Round 5: Using CC, ch2, dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st. Using MC, dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st. *Using CC, dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st. Using MC, dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st.* Repeat from* to * three more times (five color sections total). Sl st in first dc. (50 dc) 
Round 6: Using CC, ch2, dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st. Using MC, dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st. *Using CC, dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st. Using MC, dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st.* Repeat from* to * three more times (five color sections total). Sl st in first dc. (60 dc) 

Round 7: Using MC, ch2, dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st. Using CC, dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st. *Using MC, dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st. Using CC, dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st.* Repeat from* to * three more times (five color sections total). Sl st in first dc. (70 dc)
Rounds 8-9: Using MC, ch2, dc in next 7 sts. Using CC, dc in next 7 sts. *Using MC, dc in next 7 sts. Using CC, dc in next 7 sts.* Repeat from * to * until end.

Rounds 10-12: Using CC, ch2, dc in next 7 sts. Using MC, dc in next 7 sts. *Using CC, dc in next 7 sts. Using MC, dc in next 7 sts.* Repeat from * to * until end. Sl st in first dc.

Rounds 13-15: Using MC, ch2, dc in next 7 sts. Using CC, dc in next 7 sts. *Using MC, dc in next 7 sts. Using CC, dc in next 7 sts.* Repeat from * to * until end.

Rounds 16-18: Using CC, ch2, dc in next 7 sts. Using MC, dc in next 7 sts. *Using CC, dc in next 7 sts. Using MC, dc in next 7 sts.* Repeat from * to * until end. Sl st in first dc.

Left Ear Flap:
Flip the hat inside out. With the RS facing, look for the join (the beginning/end point) and count 10 sts to the right from there. With the RS facing, sl st in that 10th st from join. 

Row 1: In MC, ch1, sc in next 14 sts. Ch1, turn. (15 sc)
Row 2: Sc across, ch1, turn.
Row 3: Sc2tog, sc across, ch1, turn.
Row 4: Repeat row 3.
Rows 5-7: Repeat Rows 2-4 one more time.

Right Ear Flap:
With the hat still flipped inside out and with the WS facing, count 19 sts to the right from the join. Sl st in that 19th st from join.
Work rows 1-7 of the left ear flap.

Front Flap:
With the hat still flipped inside out and with the WS facing, count 36 sts to the left from the join. Sl st in that 36th st from join. Note: if the counting is getting confusing, just work the front flap in all of the unworked sts in the larger of the two spaces between the left and right ear flaps. 

Row 8: Working in back loops only and in MC, ch 1, sc in next 25 sts, ch1, turn. (26 sc)
Row 9-14: Sc across, ch1, turn.

Edging:
With the hat still flipped inside out, with the RS facing, and using MC, sl st in each st across.

Tips:

To change colors seamlessly, see these instructions.

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Paris Sweater

Materials:
3 skeins Vanna's Choice in Charcoal Grey (MC)
2 skeins Vanna's Choice in Dusty Blue (CC)
Size 9 circular needles
Size 8 circular needles
Note: Since you need to hold arm stitches to the side to be worked later, I recommend investing in a set of interchangeable circular needles. I use Knitters Pride Symfonie Dreamz (stupid name, I know) set, available here. The cords stay put once you screw them in and the needles are great to work with. 

Instructions:
Pattern available here. Use size 9 circular needles.

As with all sweaters, you need to make it to fit the body you are making it for. This pattern is easy to customize to fit any size.

I wanted more of an off the shoulder look, so I made the neckline ribbing shorter than the pattern called for (approximately 2 inches).

I needed a size small, so I repeated the rounds five times for the waist decrease and repeated the rounds again five times for the hips increase. It makes for a nice, snug fit.

Finally, I found that the arms are too large so I picked up only 5 stitches when starting the sleeves on step 5. When it came time to do the sleeve ribbing, I switched to size 8 circular needles to make it tighter. 

The changes I made won't fit every size body, but you can see the kinds of alterations you can make to the pattern so it fits you.

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Pattern: Vintage Ribbed Toe Up Socks

These vintage inspired socks are built for comfort with no ribbing on the bottom of the foot but ribbing that stretches on the rest of the sock.

Finished Measurements:
Pattern written for men's size 13 socks, shown in the blue sock, but it is easily customizable to fit any foot size. The red/grey socks are for men's size 9 socks.

Materials:
Size 0 double pointed needles
2 skeins Sensations Truly Pattern in Turq Pattern (fort the blue socks)
or 2 skeins Patons Kroy Socks, Ragg Shades in Grey Brown Marl (for the red/grey socks)
Scrap yarn

Stitches:
K - knit
P - purl
Sl - slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle
SSK - slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease).
K2tog - knit two stitches together (decrease).
P2tog - purl two stitches together (decrease).
Inc - knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase).

Instructions:
Toe Shaping
Using provisional cast on method, cast on 12 stitches
Round 1: P across
Round 2: K across
Round 3: P across
Round 4: K across

Remove live stitches from scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. You should have 24 sts on two needles. Begin knitting in the round.

Round 5: *K2, Inc, K1 (add a needle) K1, Inc, K2.* Repeat from * to * (28 sts)
Rounds 6-8: Needle 1 - K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 2 - K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
          Needle 3 - K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 4 - K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Increase until you have 40 sts total (10 sts per needle)

Round 9: K across
Round 10: Needle 1 - K2, Inc, K across needle
        Needle 2 - K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
        Needle 3 - K2, Inc, K across needle
        Needle 4 - K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 9 and Round 10 until you have 72 sts total (18 sts per needle)

Foot:
Round 11: Needles 1 and 2 - *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * across.
        Needles 3 and 4 - K across

Repeat Round 11 until sock is the length from the toe to the bend of your ankle at the top of your foot.

Heel Flap:
Turn so WS is facing and Work Needles 3 and 4 ONLY (36 sts)
Leave Needles 1 and 2 unworked for the heel flap

Row 12: Sl1, P across.
Row 13: Sl1, K3, P2, *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * to end.
Repeat Rows 12 and 13, 14 more times (15 repeats total, 30 rows total).

Note: If you want to make the size smaller or larger than a men's size 13 sock, then just measure it against your heel as you work. The heel flap should be the same length as your heel.

Heel Shaping:
Row 14: Sl1, P17, P2tog, P1, turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. Continue in this manner.
Row 15: Sl1, P1, K2, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 16: Sl1, P4, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 17: Sl1, P2, K3, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 18: Sl1, P6, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 19: Sl1, K1, P2, K4, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 20: Sl1, P8, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 21: Sl1, K2, P2, K4, P1, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 22: Sl1, P10, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 23: Sl1, K3, P2, K4, P2, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 24: Sl1, P12, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 25: Sl1, K4, P2, K4, P2, K1, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 26: Sl1, P14, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 27: Sl1, P1, K4, P2, K4, P2, K2, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 28: Sl1, P16, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 29: Sl1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K3, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 30: Sl1, P17, P2tog, P1, turn.

Begin working in the round again.

Round 31: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K4. Using the same needle (called Needle 4), pick up 16 sts and work *K4, P2* pattern. Work *K4, P2* pattern along Needles 1 and 2. Using the last spare needle (called Needle 3), pick up 16 sts and work in the following: P1, K4, P2, K4, P2, K3. Using the same needle, work the following heel flap sts from Needle 4: K1, P2, K4, P2.

The stitches should be distributed along your needles in the following way:
Needle 1: 18 sts
Needle 2: 18 sts 
Needle 3: 25 sts (with the heel flap sts split down the middle)
Needle 4: 26 sts (with the heel flap sts split down the middle)

Gusset Shaping (decrease)
Round 32: Needle 1 - *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * to end.
       Needle 2 - *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * to end.
       Needle 3 - Knit if the first st is a knit st, purl if the first st is a purl st, SSK, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts across
       Needle 4 - Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts until the last 3 sts, K2tog, knit if the last st is a knit st, purl if the last st is a purl st.

Round 33: Needle 1 - *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * to end.
       Needle 2 - *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * to end.
       Needle 3 - Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts across.
       Needle 4 - Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts across.

Repeat Round 32 and Round 33 until there are 18 sts on each needle (72 sts total).

Leg
Continue working *K4, P2* pattern until you reach 1 inch below your desired leg length.

Ribbing:
*K1, P1* across all needles for 1 inch.
Bind off.

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