Column of Leaves Knitted Scarf

This is a very pretty lace pattern that I used thicker yarn for, but I imagine it would be beautiful with thinner yarn.

Materials:

Size 8 needles

2 skeins Loops & Threads Impeccable yarn in Aran

Instructions:

Pattern available here.

This pattern is really easy to follow, but it's not the best pattern for memorizing and working it on the morning commute. It's repetitive and easy to do most stitches in a row without looking at the pattern, but I found it helpful to keep the pattern in front of me to glance at when starting a new row to make sure I was working the correct stitches, especially toward the middle of the row.

Tips:

Notice that the beginning and ending edging specifies WS and RS, not first row and second row. I incorrectly read it as Row 1 and Row 2 and ended on the RS row before beginning the lace pattern, but  you need to end on the WS row before beginning the pattern. Thus, either work 7 rows or 9 rows (or another odd number) before ending the edging, not 8 rows as the pattern says.

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Lesson: Change Colors Seamlessly (Crochet)

Changing colored yarns while making a hat or scarf, for example, can make for a really dynamic piece. But how do you change colors flawlessly while crocheting? You would think it's as simple as finishing one stitch entirely in one color then starting the next stitch with a new color, but it's not. In fact, you need to switch colors before finishing off your stitch.

See the photo tutorial below:

For the purposes of this demonstration, let's assume your main color (MC) is white and your contrast color (CC) is green. You are working a bunch of double crochets (DC) along in your MC, but you want to change over to the CC in your next stitch.

Start the DC as normal with the MC. Yo and pull a loop through in MC:

Yo and pull over two loops in MC:

Now change over to the CC. Yo in CC:

Pull over two loops:

Continue working DCs in the CC. 

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Pattern: Checkered Hunting Hat

Materials:
Size H crochet hook
1 skein Loops & Threads Impeccable Solids in Navy (MC)
1 skein Loops & Threads Impeccable Solids in Grey (CC)

Stitches:
Dc - double crochet
Sl st - slip stitch
MC - main color
CC - contrast color
Sc2tog - single crochet two together

Instructions:
Hat Body
The colors switch after three rounds. Once you are done increasing, each color section has 7 stitches in it.

Round 1: Using magic circle, *1 dc in MC, 1 dc in CC.* Repeat from * to * four more times (five color sections total). Sl st to 1st dc made. (10 dc)
Round 2: Using MC, ch2, dc in first st. In CC, 2dc in next st.  *In MC, 2dc in next st. In CC, 2dc in next st.* Repeat from * to * three more times (five color sections total). Sl st in first dc. (20 dc)
Round 3: Using MC, ch2, 2dc in next st. Using CC, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st. *Using MC, dc in next st, 2dc in next st. Using CC, dc in next st, 2dc in next st.* Repeat from * to * three more times (five color sections total). Sl st in first dc. (30 dc)

Round 4: Using CC, ch2, dc in next st, 2dc in next st. Using MC, dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st. *Using CC, dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st. Using MC, dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st.* Repeat from* to * three more times (five color sections total). Sl st in first dc. (40 dc)
Round 5: Using CC, ch2, dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st. Using MC, dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st. *Using CC, dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st. Using MC, dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st.* Repeat from* to * three more times (five color sections total). Sl st in first dc. (50 dc) 
Round 6: Using CC, ch2, dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st. Using MC, dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st. *Using CC, dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st. Using MC, dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st.* Repeat from* to * three more times (five color sections total). Sl st in first dc. (60 dc) 

Round 7: Using MC, ch2, dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st. Using CC, dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st. *Using MC, dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st. Using CC, dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st.* Repeat from* to * three more times (five color sections total). Sl st in first dc. (70 dc)
Rounds 8-9: Using MC, ch2, dc in next 7 sts. Using CC, dc in next 7 sts. *Using MC, dc in next 7 sts. Using CC, dc in next 7 sts.* Repeat from * to * until end.

Rounds 10-12: Using CC, ch2, dc in next 7 sts. Using MC, dc in next 7 sts. *Using CC, dc in next 7 sts. Using MC, dc in next 7 sts.* Repeat from * to * until end. Sl st in first dc.

Rounds 13-15: Using MC, ch2, dc in next 7 sts. Using CC, dc in next 7 sts. *Using MC, dc in next 7 sts. Using CC, dc in next 7 sts.* Repeat from * to * until end.

Rounds 16-18: Using CC, ch2, dc in next 7 sts. Using MC, dc in next 7 sts. *Using CC, dc in next 7 sts. Using MC, dc in next 7 sts.* Repeat from * to * until end. Sl st in first dc.

Left Ear Flap:
Flip the hat inside out. With the RS facing, look for the join (the beginning/end point) and count 10 sts to the right from there. With the RS facing, sl st in that 10th st from join. 

Row 1: In MC, ch1, sc in next 14 sts. Ch1, turn. (15 sc)
Row 2: Sc across, ch1, turn.
Row 3: Sc2tog, sc across, ch1, turn.
Row 4: Repeat row 3.
Rows 5-7: Repeat Rows 2-4 one more time.

Right Ear Flap:
With the hat still flipped inside out and with the WS facing, count 19 sts to the right from the join. Sl st in that 19th st from join.
Work rows 1-7 of the left ear flap.

Front Flap:
With the hat still flipped inside out and with the WS facing, count 36 sts to the left from the join. Sl st in that 36th st from join. Note: if the counting is getting confusing, just work the front flap in all of the unworked sts in the larger of the two spaces between the left and right ear flaps. 

Row 8: Working in back loops only and in MC, ch 1, sc in next 25 sts, ch1, turn. (26 sc)
Row 9-14: Sc across, ch1, turn.

Edging:
With the hat still flipped inside out, with the RS facing, and using MC, sl st in each st across.

Tips:

To change colors seamlessly, see these instructions.

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Paris Sweater

Materials:
3 skeins Vanna's Choice in Charcoal Grey (MC)
2 skeins Vanna's Choice in Dusty Blue (CC)
Size 9 circular needles
Size 8 circular needles
Note: Since you need to hold arm stitches to the side to be worked later, I recommend investing in a set of interchangeable circular needles. I use Knitters Pride Symfonie Dreamz (stupid name, I know) set, available here. The cords stay put once you screw them in and the needles are great to work with. 

Instructions:
Pattern available here. Use size 9 circular needles.

As with all sweaters, you need to make it to fit the body you are making it for. This pattern is easy to customize to fit any size.

I wanted more of an off the shoulder look, so I made the neckline ribbing shorter than the pattern called for (approximately 2 inches).

I needed a size small, so I repeated the rounds five times for the waist decrease and repeated the rounds again five times for the hips increase. It makes for a nice, snug fit.

Finally, I found that the arms are too large so I picked up only 5 stitches when starting the sleeves on step 5. When it came time to do the sleeve ribbing, I switched to size 8 circular needles to make it tighter. 

The changes I made won't fit every size body, but you can see the kinds of alterations you can make to the pattern so it fits you.

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Pattern: Vintage Ribbed Toe Up Socks

These vintage inspired socks are built for comfort with no ribbing on the bottom of the foot but ribbing that stretches on the rest of the sock.

Finished Measurements:
Pattern written for men's size 13 socks, shown in the blue sock, but it is easily customizable to fit any foot size. The red/grey socks are for men's size 9 socks.

Materials:
Size 0 double pointed needles
2 skeins Sensations Truly Pattern in Turq Pattern (fort the blue socks)
or 2 skeins Patons Kroy Socks, Ragg Shades in Grey Brown Marl (for the red/grey socks)
Scrap yarn

Stitches:
K - knit
P - purl
Sl - slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle
SSK - slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease).
K2tog - knit two stitches together (decrease).
P2tog - purl two stitches together (decrease).
Inc - knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase).

Instructions:
Toe Shaping
Using provisional cast on method, cast on 12 stitches
Round 1: P across
Round 2: K across
Round 3: P across
Round 4: K across

Remove live stitches from scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. You should have 24 sts on two needles. Begin knitting in the round.

Round 5: *K2, Inc, K1 (add a needle) K1, Inc, K2.* Repeat from * to * (28 sts)
Rounds 6-8: Needle 1 - K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 2 - K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
          Needle 3 - K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 4 - K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Increase until you have 40 sts total (10 sts per needle)

Round 9: K across
Round 10: Needle 1 - K2, Inc, K across needle
        Needle 2 - K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
        Needle 3 - K2, Inc, K across needle
        Needle 4 - K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 9 and Round 10 until you have 72 sts total (18 sts per needle)

Foot:
Round 11: Needles 1 and 2 - *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * across.
        Needles 3 and 4 - K across

Repeat Round 11 until sock is the length from the toe to the bend of your ankle at the top of your foot.

Heel Flap:
Turn so WS is facing and Work Needles 3 and 4 ONLY (36 sts)
Leave Needles 1 and 2 unworked for the heel flap

Row 12: Sl1, P across.
Row 13: Sl1, K3, P2, *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * to end.
Repeat Rows 12 and 13, 14 more times (15 repeats total, 30 rows total).

Note: If you want to make the size smaller or larger than a men's size 13 sock, then just measure it against your heel as you work. The heel flap should be the same length as your heel.

Heel Shaping:
Row 14: Sl1, P17, P2tog, P1, turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. Continue in this manner.
Row 15: Sl1, P1, K2, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 16: Sl1, P4, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 17: Sl1, P2, K3, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 18: Sl1, P6, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 19: Sl1, K1, P2, K4, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 20: Sl1, P8, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 21: Sl1, K2, P2, K4, P1, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 22: Sl1, P10, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 23: Sl1, K3, P2, K4, P2, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 24: Sl1, P12, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 25: Sl1, K4, P2, K4, P2, K1, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 26: Sl1, P14, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 27: Sl1, P1, K4, P2, K4, P2, K2, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 28: Sl1, P16, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 29: Sl1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K3, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 30: Sl1, P17, P2tog, P1, turn.

Begin working in the round again.

Round 31: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K4. Using the same needle (called Needle 4), pick up 16 sts and work *K4, P2* pattern. Work *K4, P2* pattern along Needles 1 and 2. Using the last spare needle (called Needle 3), pick up 16 sts and work in the following: P1, K4, P2, K4, P2, K3. Using the same needle, work the following heel flap sts from Needle 4: K1, P2, K4, P2.

The stitches should be distributed along your needles in the following way:
Needle 1: 18 sts
Needle 2: 18 sts 
Needle 3: 25 sts (with the heel flap sts split down the middle)
Needle 4: 26 sts (with the heel flap sts split down the middle)

Gusset Shaping (decrease)
Round 32: Needle 1 - *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * to end.
       Needle 2 - *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * to end.
       Needle 3 - Knit if the first st is a knit st, purl if the first st is a purl st, SSK, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts across
       Needle 4 - Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts until the last 3 sts, K2tog, knit if the last st is a knit st, purl if the last st is a purl st.

Round 33: Needle 1 - *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * to end.
       Needle 2 - *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * to end.
       Needle 3 - Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts across.
       Needle 4 - Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts across.

Repeat Round 32 and Round 33 until there are 18 sts on each needle (72 sts total).

Leg
Continue working *K4, P2* pattern until you reach 1 inch below your desired leg length.

Ribbing:
*K1, P1* across all needles for 1 inch.
Bind off.

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Stockholm Scarf

This cowl is really versatile with many different yarns and is stretchy so it can fit snug around your neck but still fit over your head.

Materials:
Size 10 needles
2 skeins Artful yarns Reality in color 2405 (grey, black, and white stripes)

Instructions:
Pattern available here. I CO 51 sts and made it smaller than the pattern. Continue knitting until you run out of yarn, but make sure to leave a long enough tail to sew the two ends together.

I used yarn that I bought a long time ago but just couldn't find a good use for. I didn't get enough yarn to make a large project, but this cowl pattern was perfect and easily adaptable to the amount of yarn I had. My cowl came out much smaller than the pattern called for because I didn't CO as many stitches and I knit for much fewer rows.

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Entrelac Scarf

 Materials:
2 skeins Ice Yarns: Madonna
Size 10 needles

Instructions:
Pattern available here. This is a great pattern for entrelac beginners and it explains the process well. It can take a bit to wrap your brain around how the process works, but once you get it, you'll feel like a genius and making the scarf will be a breeze. The foundation row is definitely the most challenging (as it usually is…) There are many YouTube videos that are helpful just to see how the entrelac process works.

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Pattern: Celtic Cable Toe Up Socks

Finished Measurements:
Comfortably fits size 8 women's sock, but easily adaptable to fit any adult shoe size.

Materials:
2 skeins Patons Kroy Socks FX in Camo Colors
Size 2 double pointed needles
Scrap yarn

Stitches:
K - knit
P - purl
Sl - slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle
SSK - slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease).
K2tog - knit two stitches together (decrease).
P2tog - purl two stitches together (decrease).
Inc - knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase).
C4F (cable 4 front) - slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, knit 2, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

C4B (cable 4 back) - slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 2, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

C2B (cable 2 back) - slip 1 stitch to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 1, then knit the 1 stitch from the cable needle.
Cr3L - slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, purl 1, then knit 2 from the cable needle.

Cr3R - slip 1 stitch to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 2, then purl 1 from the cable needle.

Cr4L - slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, purl 2, then knit 2 from the cable needle.

Cr4R - slip 2 stitch to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 2, then purl 2 from the cable needle.

An easy way to remember the stitches is to always have the purl stitches in the back of the knit stitches.

Celtic Knot Pattern:

Row 1: P2, K2, P1, (P2, C4B, P2) x 3, P1, K2, P2.

Row 2: P2, K2, P3, (K4, P4) X 2, K4, P3, K3, P1. 

Row 3: P2, C2B, P2, Cr3R, (Cr4L, Cr4R) x 2, Cr3L, P2, C2B, P2.

Row 4: (P2, K2) X 2, P3, K4, P4, K4, P3, (K2, P2) X 2.

Row 5: P2, K2, P1, Cr3R, P1, (P2, C4F, P2) x 2, P1, Cr3L, P1, K2, P2.

Row 6: P2, C2B, P1, K2, (P4, K4) X 2, P4, K2, P1, C2B, P2.

Row 7: P2, K2, P1, K2, P2, (Cr4R, Cr4L) x 2, P2, K2, P1, K2, P2.

Row 8: P2, K2, P1, K2, P2, K2, P4, K4, P4, K2, P2, K2, P1, K2, P2.

Row 9: P2, C2B, P1, (K2, P2) x 2, P2, C4B, P2, (P2, K2) x 2, P1, C2B, P2.
Row 10: P2, K2, P1, K2, P2, K2, P4, K4, P4, K2, P2, K2, P1, K2, P2
Row 11: P2, K2, P1, K2, P2, (Cr4L, Cr4R) x 2, P2, K2, P1, K2, P2.
Row 12: P2, C2B, P1, K2, (P4, K4) x 2, P4, K2, P1, C2B,P2.
Row 13: P2, K2, P1, Cr3L, P1, (P2, C4F, P2) x 2, P1, Cr3R, P1, K2, P2.
Row 14: P2, K2, P2, K2, P3, K4, P4, K4, P3, K2, P2, K2, P2.
Row 15: P2, C2B, P2, Cr3L, (Cr4R, Cr4L) x 2, Cr3R, P2, C2B, P2.
Row 16: P2, K2, P3, (K4, P4) x 2, K4, P3, K2, P2.
Row 17: P2, K2, P1, (P2, K4, P2) x 3, P1, K2, P2.
Row 18: P2, C2B, P1, (P2, K4, P2) x 3, P1, C2B, P2.

Instructions:
Toe Shaping
Using provisional cast on method, cast on 8 stitches
Round 1: P across
Round 2: K across
Round 3: P across
Round 4: K across

Remove live stitches from scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. You should have 16 sts on two needles. Begin knitting in the round.

Round 5: *K2, Inc, K1 (add a needle) K1, Inc, K2.* Repeat from * to * (20 sts)
Rounds 6-8: Needle 1 - K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 2 - K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
          Needle 3 - K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 4 - K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Increase until you have 32 sts total (8 sts per needle)

Round 9: K across
Round 10: Needle 1 - K2, Inc, K across needle
        Needle 2 - K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
        Needle 3 - K2, Inc, K across needle
        Needle 4 - K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 9 and Round 10 until you have 68 sts total (17 sts per needle)

Foot:
Round 11: Needles 1 and 2 - Work Celtic Knot Pattern
        Needles 3 and 4 - K across

Repeat Round 11 until you work all 18 rows of the celtic knot pattern twice.

Heel Flap:
Turn so WS is facing and Work Needles 3 and 4 ONLY (34 sts)
Leave Needles 1 and 2 unworked for the heel flap

Row 12: Sl1, P across.
Row 13: *Sl1, K1.* Repeat from * to * to end.
Repeat Rows 12 and 13, 11 more times (12 repeats total, 24 rows total).

Heel Shaping:
Row 14: Sl1, P16, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 14 sts remaining unworked).
Row 15: Sl1, K3, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 12 sts remaining unworked).
Row 16: Sl1, P4, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 12 sts remaining unworked).
Row 17: Sl1, K5, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 10 sts remaining unworked). 
Row 18: Sl1, P6, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 10 sts remaining unworked).
Row 19: Sl1, K7, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 8 sts remaining unworked).
Row 20: Sl1, P8, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 8 sts remaining unworked).
Row 21: Sl1, K9, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 6 sts remaining unworked).
Row 22: Sl1, P10, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 6 sts remaining unworked).
Row 23: Sl1, K11, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 4 sts remaining unworked).
Row 24: Sl1, P12, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 4 sts remaining unworked).
Row 25: Sl1, K13, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 2 sts remaining unworked).
Row 26: Sl1, P14, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 2 sts remaining unworked).
Row 27: Sl1, K15, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 28: Sl1, P16, P2tog, P1, turn.

Begin working in the round again.

Round 29: K across 19 sts of heel flap. Using the same needle (called Needle 4), pick up and K8 sts along the heel flap. Work Celtic Knot Pattern along Needles 1 and 2. Using the last spare needle (called Needle 3), pick up and K8 sts along the other side of the heel flap.

Distribute sts along the needles as follows:
Needle 1: 17 sts (keep these as the same sts with the Celtic Knot Pattern)
Needle 2: 17 sts (keep these as the same sts with the Celtic Knot Pattern)
Needle 3: 17 sts
Needle 4: 18 sts

Gusset Shaping (decrease)
Round 30: Needle 1 - work Celtic Knot Pattern
       Needle 2 - work Celtic Knot Pattern
       Needle 3 - K1, SSK, K across until end of needle
       Needle 4 - K across until last 3 sts of needle, SSK, K1

Round 31: Needle 1 - work rib pattern
       Needle 2 - work rib pattern
       Needle 3 - K across
       Needle 4 - K across

Repeat Round 30 and Round 31 until there are 14 sts each on Needles 3 and 4, leaving 17 sts each on Needles 1 and 2. (62 sts total). Note: since Needle 4 has one more st than Needle 3, you will decrease on Needle 4 for one more round than on Needle 3.

Leg
K across Needles 3 and 4 and work Celtic Knot Pattern on Needles 1 and 2 until you have worked the entire Celtic Knot Pattern twice.

Ribbing:
Rounds 32-37: K2, P2.
Cast off.

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Milanese Lace Topper

This is a great pattern that's perfect for fall and reminds me of falling leaves, especially in the burnt orange color yarn.

Materials:
Size 11 circular needle
Size 11 double pointed needles
1 skein Lion Brans Vanna's Choice in Rust - I only used about half of the skein for one hat so I made two and gave one to a friend

Instructions:
Pattern available here. This pattern was brought to my attention by the reddit knit along last year sometimes. I just got around to making it now.

I made the brim shorter than the pattern called for, then even shorter on the second hat I made (not pictured). In the pictured hat, I knit only 10 rows for the brim after the first K1, P1 round. In the second hat, I made the brim even shorter and only knit 4 rows for the brim. I tried it with the brim that the pattern called for and I found the brim curled too much and did not lay flat, even with blocking.

Use the circular needle for most of the hat, then switch to the double pointed needles as you decrease and the circular needle cord becomes too long to hold such few stitches.

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Pattern: Hamburger Nook Case

Finished Measurements:

Fits a Nook HD tablet, measuring 7.65" x 5"

Materials:
Size H crochet hook
Less than 1 skein of worsted weight yarn each in Light Brown, Dark Brown, Red, Green, Mustard Yellow, and White

Instructions:
Using Light Brown yarn, ch 18

Round 1: 1 dc in second ch from hook, 1 dc in each ch across until the last ch, 2 dc in last ch, turn and work in the bottom loops of the beginning chs, 2 dc in first ch bottom, 1 dc in each ch bottom across until the last ch bottom, 2 dc in last ch bottom. Do not join - continue working in the round.

Rounds 2-5: 1 dc in each dc across.
Rounds 6-8: Using Dark Brown, 1 dc in each dc across.
Round 9: Using Mustard Yellow, 1 dc in each dc across.
Round 10: Using Red, 1 dc in each dc across until 3/4 of the way across the front side. Change to Green, 1 puff st in each dc until the end of the first side. Change to Red, 1 dc in each dc across.

Round 11: Using Green, 1 puff st in each dc/puff st across.
Rounds 12-17: Using Light Brown, 1 dc in each puff st/dc across.

Finishing:
To add seeds to the top of the bun, cut 2 inch strips of White yarn and wrap them around a dc, tying it in the back. Space the seeds out evenly.

Tips:
To seamlessly change colors, do the following for the last dc in the round:
Yo, insert hook in the next st, yo, pull yarn through stitch, yo, pull yarn through 2 loops on the hook, yo in the new color, pull yarn through last 2 loops on the hook.

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Crochet Market Bag

Make this cute market bag with a sturdy handle to hold all of your goodies.

Materials:
1 skein Dawn Sayelle in Fisherman - worsted weight yarn (I think it's an old yarn brand. I got it at a tag sale)
Size H crochet hook
Size J crochet hook

Instructions:
Pattern available here.

I made the first round with the size H crochet hook to make the stitches in the center part of the circle smaller than the rest of the work. This allows the bottom of the bag to lay flat and prevents it from poking out at an odd angle.

After the first round, I switched to the size J crochet hook and finished the rest of the piece.

Also, I wanted a bag that was longer and skinner so I skipped Round 6, making the bottom circle smaller.

I instantly filled mine with lots of yarn skeins just for kicks  and they fit perfectly.

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Star Crossed Slouchy Beret

This is one of my favorite hats to make and it comes out looking differently depending upon the yarn thickness you use. If you use a worsted weight yarn, it comes out with the perfect slouchiness.

Materials:
Size 11 circular needle (or double pointed needles)
Size 10 circular needle (or double pointed needles)
Cable needle
1 skein any worsted weight yarn
      I used various yarns from tag sales to make the hats in different colors, using less than one skein each time.

Instructions:
Pattern available here.

The red yarn was a bit thicker than the pattern called for, but I just skipped the last "work rows 1-6 one time" before beginning the decrease.

Also, for all hat colors, I switched to the size 10 needles when working this decrease round and all rounds following: "*K10, K2tog, repeat from * to the end of the round." This makes sure the hat is slouchy, but not too slouchy.

Tips:
This is a great pattern to try knitting cables without cable needles. A great tutorial video is available here (all Knitting Help videos are super helpful). Once you get the hang of it, the project goes much quicker because you don't need to pick up and drop a cable needle to make the cable.

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